![]() ![]() Capacitors within the actual amplifier pop when discharging from an input current (as it only occurs when the RCAs are in): NOT THE CASE: simply because I have had this amplifier in previous vehicles without popping.Head Unit popping on power off: NOT THE CASE: If I flick the switch off without turning off the headunit then the amplifier still pops however not as loud.Didn't own this in my last car and my last car didn't pop with the same amplifier- only difference is that last time I was using an aftermarket deck and therefore was running a low level signal straight from the deck. Loud pop when head unit provides current to it. AudioControl EPIC 150 - ParaBass harmonics + line level converter: MOST LIKELY: Quieter pop switching off even when head unit is not turned on.Someone had suggested I possibly need a better earthing. I really want a solution for the pop when turning off. Philips CCR 600 from a 1998 Vauxhall/ Opel/ Holden Vectra. If the amp is turned on by the head unit's power antenna output, the amp won't be able to pop when the head unit is switched on because the amp won't power up for a second or two (due to the turn on delay). If the amp pops on turn on, you probably have the remote turn-on terminal connected to the ignition instead of the power antenna output of the head unit. If you have a pop, you may have the converter improperly installed or have the wrong converter. With the transformers, there is no pop because BOTH inputs of the transformer are driven from 0-6v at the same time. If you use a line converter without the transformers, there will be a significant pop as the outputs switch from 0-6v. ![]() A high power line output converter has a transformer for each channel. When you power up the head unit, the outputs swing from ground (0v) to the output bias voltage (~6v). These have a DC bias point of ~1/2 of the B+ voltage. What type of head unit? Does it have any preouts?Ī common head unit uses a bridged pair of amplifiers for each speaker. So your are using the speaker outputs on the head unit? That is your most likely issue the speaker outputs are not synchronized in the same way as the preouts. Difficult to say which.įor starters, are you sure you have the remote leads connected properly?Įdit: Sorry, I just noticed you are using a line level converter. The head unit is too fast, or the amp is too slow. What is happening to you is the amplifier is not fully shut down, or muted, prior to the head unit. When power is cut to the head unit (through the ignition), two things happen: the preouts are powered down, with the subsequent thump, and the remote turn-on lead is taken from 12 to 0V, telling the amp to turn off. The turn off issue, however, is more difficult. There should also be a small delay internal to the amp, that the power up cycle takes a half second or so after the application of 12V to the remote lead. This can be done with a delay on the remote lead, as ppia600 mentions. The head unit is supposed to have its preout signals up and ready prior to the amplifier turning on its outputs. If the amp's remote turn-on lead is properly connected to your head unit's remote turn-on lead, then this is a more difficult issue to address. In my experience, the turn off thump is more prevalent, and difficult to address. ![]() If so, the delay device will only work when turning the amp on. You say you get pop both when you turn the ignition on, and when you turn it off? I figure a capacitor in function would seem logical as it would absorb the high pulse of voltage and slowly release it however I do not want to alter the sound (especially not apply a high pass filter on my sub!) If the problem is within the amplifer, is there anything I can put between the amplifier and speaker to stop this? If the problem was from the headunit, I can't just stick a capacitor on there because wouldn't that work as a high pass filter? What can be done if it's due to the head unit?ģ. How can I find out whether it is the head unit or the amplifier discharging an input signal that is causing the pop? I have a multimeter that has a bunch of features I don't know how to use but may be helpful.Ģ. It's hard for me to isolate whether it is the head unit or the amplifier discharging the input signal that is causing the pop.ġ. It does not occur when I turn the amplifier on and off with the RCAs not plugged in. I'm annoyed by it as well as I'm concerned about any damage it is doing. The speaker has a significant throw on it when this occurs. When the RCAs are hooked in from the line level converter to the amplifier and I turn the ignition on and off, the amplifier sends a loud pop to the speaker.
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